Nairobi I

First day in Nairobi, two worlds.

Our home for two nights: The Sarova Stanley Hotel in downtown Nairobi, recommended by Tim because that’s where he pampers himself (deservedly, as all those who know him would agree.) I think he likes the breakfast buffet (which can carry you through the day) and of course the pool on the top floor (Tim loves a good swim.)

Tim’s friend Willis is our guide today. He wanted us to see the project he and his former boss, now a Minister of Parliament, are working on. Its goal is to upgrade the current living conditions in Kibera slum (the third largest slum in the world) by providing more substantial, safe housing, plumbing, sewer, internet access, and structured programs for youth.

As each boma is built in the new slum, Soweto East and the residents move in, the original section of tin and mud houses, sans plumbing, is demolished to provide room for new construction. After the first phase of construction, which took about two years, 1800 slum dwellers were relocated. The current population of Kibera is about 400,000. You do the math. But Willis and his group have vision, and determination, and I applaud them their strength and heart.

A the end of the day, Willis took us to a local Kibera pub, to hang out with the locals and listen to the live open mike musicians, which was predictably great.

Never in a million years would I have imagined hanging out in a bar in one of the largest, most dangerous slums in the world, drinking a beer. And I probably wouldn’t have without Willis, who is such an ambassador of the people.

So the music was good and Betty insisted we dance, so up we went to the empty dance floor (most of the guys were just standing in the aisles and by the tables dancing) Rather than gawking at the only two mzunga, we were quickly surrounded by other dancers, smiling and shaking our hands.

Next day I got into a conversation with a staff member at the hotel, who was dusting with a long tree limb handle that had a wad of roving wrapped around one end. One thing led to another, and it happens that his aunt raises sheep in the Rift Valley, and sells the wool to an American who has a ranch in the area, and works with a co-operative that trains women how to spin and weave and to manage businesses with their crafts. For his part, Obed works with Nairobi youth at risk, to occupy and train them so that they might find employment.

I’ve been in Kenya for less than two days, and already I have met so many people who, while they themselves don’t have a lot, recognize the need of those who have less, and willingly participate to make their lives better.

Kibera slum:

Our Kibera guides, Michael (on the right,) who heads the youth programs, and Samson, the IT wizard on the left:

And the new Soweto East Slum: